RV Education 101

Preventive Maintenance Checks for an RV Generator

2009-11-11T10:34:00.000-05:00

Preventive Maintenance (PM) is maintenance the owner can perform on your RV before a problem exists. These checks are designed to prevent or identify potential problems that could lead to mechanical breakdown, malfunction or failure of a component or system on your RV. Preventive Maintenance consists of cleaning, inspecting, lubricating, adjusting and servicing your RV.
Here are some PM checks you can perform on a typical RV generator. In addition to these checks you should always follow the maintenance schedule and guidelines that came with your specific generator set.
Note: These PM checks are for a gasoline fueled generator. There are diesel propane fueled generators too. Some of these checks apply to all types, but some don’t. Consult your generator owner’s manual for maintenance checks and services for your specific generator.

1) Always check the oil level and the exhaust system prior to starting the generator. Starting and running a generator that is low on oil can result in costly damage to the generator’s engine. Add oil as required. Check your owner manual for the type of oil to use. A damaged exhaust system can result in carbon monoxide gas getting inside the RV. Always inspect the entire generator exhaust system prior to starting the generator. Never operate a generator with a damaged exhaust system!

2)Keep the generator set and the compartment it is housed in clean. You can use compressed air to assist in cleaning out the generator compartment and a clean shop rag to clean the generator set. While you are cleaning the generator check all electrical connectors for secure connections.
Note: always wear safety glasses when using compressed air.

3)Check all of the filters on the generator. A typical generator may have an air filter, fuel filter and oil filter. Check your generator owner manual for the types of filters your generator has and where they are located. Maintenance checks and services for a generator are based on hours of operation. You need to monitor the hour meter on your generator set for all maintenance intervals.

a)Check the air filter for cleanliness. You can remove it and inspect the fins on the back for signs of dirt or debris. You can tap the air filter on a flat surface to help remove some of the dirt and debris. Change a dirty filter, or change it at prescribed intervals. Inspect the air filter more often in dusty conditions.

b)The fuel filter will typically be an in-line type filter. Over time it filters out and collects enough debris that it can interfere with the flow of fuel. Check and replace the fuel filter at prescribed intervals.

c)We’ll talk about the oil filter in just a minute.

4)Change the oil and oil filter (if equipped). This is perhaps the most important PM Service you can perform on your generator to ensure years of reliable service. Change the oil and replace the oil filter at the recommended intervals. It’s really quite simple to do. Your generator owner’s manual will usually describe the steps to follow. If you don’t feel comfortable changing the oil and filter have an authorized RV service center do it for you.

5)Replace the spark plugs at recommended intervals. If you ever replaced the spark plugs in a vehicle you can replace the plugs in the generator, unless due to the constraints of the generator compartment you can’t access the spark plugs. In this case you may want to let an authorized RV service center do it for you. If you decide to do it yourself check your generator owner manual for the correct type of plug to use and double check the spark plug gap before installing the plugs. Do not over tighten spark plugs!

6)Exercise the generator. There are several reasons why you should start and exercise the generator on a regular basis. Moisture build up can cause damage to your generator. When you exercise your generator it heats up the generator windings and eliminates this moisture build up. This monthly exercise regime also lubricates all of the engine seals and components and helps to prevent carbon build up. So, what exactly do I mean when I say exercise your generator? For a gasoline generator I mean that you start and run the generator with at least a 50 % load, for at least two hours every month. It is extremely important that you run it with this minimum rated load. Generators are designed to run with a load placed on them. It’s always better to let your generator run for longer time periods than it is for short time periods. Check your generator owner’s manual for load ratings specific to your unit. Always try to avoid starting or stopping a generator when there is a 120 volt device or appliance turned on.

7)Add a fuel stabilizer during periods of storage or non-use. If it’s a motorhome add a fuel stabilizer to the motorhomes gas tank and run the generator long enough for the stabilizer to get through the fuel system. This will help prevent gas related problems on carbureted generators, like not starting or surging. These are problems you don’t need. Fuel stabilizers can protect the fuel system for up to six months, but keep in mind the importance to exercise the generator when possible.

Well there you have it. Follow these simple steps, and the maintenance and service instructions in the generator owner’s manual, and you can get years of reliable service from your generator set.

A couple of additional tips for generator maintenance are to keep the battery that is used to start the generator maintained, and when running the generator monitor the AC voltage and frequency output with some type of digital plug in meter. I recommend one that can test campground polarity, measure AC line voltage and AC frequency. Frequency is the number of times that electricity alternates per second. U.S. appliances are designed to operate at 60 cycles per second, or 60 hertz.

When you use your generator the governor in the generator must hold the speed constant at, or close to 60 hertz from no load on the generator to a full load. Depending on the load placed on the generator, AC voltage can range from 105 to 135 volts and the frequency can range from 58 to 63 hertz. Anything outside of these parameters can cause problems for your RV electrical system and/or generator set. The meter will let you know when the generator is not operating within the proper ranges and you can have it checked out and repaired before any damage occurs.

Happy Camping,
Mark J. Polk

RV Education 101

RV University

copyright 2009 by Mark Polk owner of RV Education 101

Winter Battery Storage & Maintenance

2009-10-20T13:01:00.000-05:00

I was recently asked a question and felt like the answer could be useful to lots of RVers, so I am using the question as the topic for this article.

Q: Hi Mark, we live in Colorado and we are preparing our RV for storage. I just had the RV winterized, but I am concerned about how or what to do to store my RV batteries. Any advice would be appreciated.

A: The two most common causes for RV battery failure are undercharging and overcharging. Undercharging is a result of batteries being repeatedly discharged and not fully recharged between cycles. If a battery is not recharged the sulfate material that attaches to the discharged portions of the plates begins to harden into crystals. Over time this sulfate cannot be converted back into active plate material and the battery is ruined. This also occurs when a battery remains discharged for an extended period of time, like during storage. Sulfation is the number one cause of battery failure. The second leading cause of battery failure is overcharging. Overcharging batteries results in severe water loss and plate corrosion. With that said let’s look at how to properly store your RV batteries.

Before we talk about storing the batteries we need to talk about battery safety. Lead acid batteries contain sulfuric acid which is extremely corrosive and can cause severe burns or even blindness. And the hydrogen gas that batteries produce, when they’re charging, is very explosive. When you work around batteries you need to wear safety glasses and gloves, remove all jewelry and do not smoke or use any open flames.

Caution: If you accidentally get battery acid on your skin, flush it with lots of water and if it gets in your eyes flush with low pressure water for 15 minutes and call a doctor.

When you put the RV in long term storage it’s a good idea to remove the batteries and put them in storage too. This is quite simple to do. The first thing we want to do is visually inspect the batteries for any obvious damage. Any fluid on or around the battery may be an indication that electrolyte is leaking from the battery. A damaged or leaking battery should be replaced immediately. Whenever you remove any battery always remember to remove the negative terminal or cable first, and then the positive cable.

Battery Tip: When you remove a battery turn off the ignition switch, all electrical switches, and any battery disconnect switches before you disconnect the battery cables. Whenever you remove any battery cables label them first so you remember how they go back on the battery next spring. When you reinstall the battery do it in the reverse order. Install the positive cable first and then the negative cable.

Clean the batteries with a 50/50 mixture of baking soda and water if necessary. Now you can check the electrolyte level in each cell and add distilled water if necessary. The minimum level required, before charging a battery, is at the top of the plates. If it’s below the plates add enough distilled water to cover the plates before you charge the battery.

Test the battery state of charge with a voltmeter or hydrometer and charge any batteries that are at or below 80% state of charge. An 80% charge is approximately 12.5 volts for a 12-volt battery and 6.25 volts for a 6-volt battery. Lead sulfation starts when a battery state of charge drops below 80%. After charging the batteries check and fill each cell to 1/8 inch below the fill well with distilled water. Overfilling cells will cause battery acid to overflow.

Caution: Batteries should only be charged in a well ventilated area and keep any sparks and open flames away from a battery being charged. Check the electrolyte levels before and after charging batteries.

A discharged or partially charged battery will freeze much faster than a charged battery. Store the batteries in a cool dry place but not where they could freeze. Batteries in storage will loose a percentage of current through internal leakage. It’s not uncommon for a battery to discharge up to 10% a month when it is being stored. Cold temperatures slow this natural discharge process down and warmer temperatures speed the process up. Test the stored battery state of charge every month and charge batteries that are at or below an 80% state of charge.

Completely charge the batteries before re-installing them next spring. For optimum performance you can equalize the batteries after they are fully charged. Battery equalizing is a controlled overcharge on a flooded lead acid battery after it has been fully charged. Equalizing reverses the buildup of negative chemical effects like stratification, a condition where the water and acid separate and the acid concentration is greater at the bottom of the battery than at the top. Equalizing also helps remove some of the sulfate build up on the battery plates. Equalizing is fine as long as there is not excessive heating or electrolyte boiling over. Some battery chargers have an equalization cycle or charge setting. After charging a battery, set the battery charger on equalizing voltage and charge it again. You need to test the specific gravity every hour during equalizing. Equalization is complete when the specific gravity readings no longer rise during the gassing or bubbling stage. Keep in mind if equalizing a battery is done correctly the electrolyte should not boil over but it will create a good bit of bubbling, and when the cycle is finished you will need to add distilled water to the cells.

Note: If you don’t feel comfortable working on or around lead acid batteries have battery maintenance done by an authorized service center.

If you decide to leave the batteries in the RV while it is in storage remember to check the state of charge monthly and charge any batteries at or below an 80% charge. If your RV converter charger charges the battery(s) at a constant rate (around 13.5 volts) this is too high for a float charge and can deplete the electrolyte over time. In this situation plug the RV in periodically and allow the converter charger to charge the battery(s) for 8 to 12 hours. Some RV converter multi-stage chargers and aftermarket chargers are designed to maintain a float charge on the battery without removing the batteries from the RV. Remember, for the converter charger to work the RV will need to be plugged in to electricity.

Watch a video clip on Saving your RV Batteries

For more in depth information on RV batteries check out our Deep Cycle Battery Care & Maintenance DVD

Happy Camping,

Mark Polk

RV Education 101

RV University

Copyright 2009 by Mark Polk owner of RV Education 101

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2009-01-03T07:11:00.001-05:00

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My First Real RV Adventure

2009-01-01T16:52:00.002-05:00

Happy New Year Everybody

Another year has gone by and looking back I reflect on how I got hooked on this thing called RVing. Thirty-three years ago I towed my first travel trailer. Of course at the time, like most teenagers, I thought I knew everything. I tent camped for years and had experienced camping in travel trailers and motor homes with a friend of mine and his family, but this was my first real RV adventure, out on my own. I had recently graduated from high school and was working for an RV dealership in Pennsylvania. I started out washing campers and eventually worked to the position of an apprentice technician. I was always mechanically inclined and had an interest in how things worked; from age twelve when I disassembled our perfectly good lawn mower to see how it worked, to age sixteen when I rebuilt my first VW engine.

It was Thanksgiving and deer hunting season was quickly approaching, which in North Central Pennsylvania is very similar to a Federal holiday. I asked my boss if I could borrow an old travel trailer to use for a deer hunting trip and to my surprise he actually said yes. I don’t remember all of the details about the travel trailer, but I do know it was a Shasta because it had the classic wings on each back corner. I would guess that it was a mid-to-late 60’s model and it was close to 20-feet long. The only conditions for borrowing the trailer were:

1) To bring it back in one piece and

2) Not to use the water system because it was winterized and the temperatures were in the low teens.

Antlered deer hunting season started the Monday following Thanksgiving and I invited my best friend to go with me. We were going to head up into the foothills on Saturday to set things up and do some last minute scouting. I had a 1969 Chevy Blazer. It was a full size, K5 model, with a six-cylinder engine and rust holes in the body the size of softballs. Now, you would think that working for an RV dealership I would have access to, and use, the proper hitch work and brake control to tow the trailer. I do remember wiring a plug for the trailer lights, but figured since I wouldn’t be towing the trailer on a regular basis I would forgo the brakes and just drop the trailer on the ball and go.

Keep in mind I was a teenager, and knew everything back then. Kind of like how my teenage son knows everything now! There were no pre-trip checks or inspections. We picked up the bare essentials, a pot and pan, some groceries, our sleeping bags and hunting equipment and off we went. It was about a sixty-mile trip to our favorite hunting destination. The first thirty-five miles was on two-lane paved roads and the last twenty-five miles was a winding, snow covered dirt road barely wide enough for one vehicle. If you encountered traffic going the opposite direction somebody had to back up until there was a spot wide enough for both vehicles to safely pass. I do remember the Blazer didn’t seem to steer quite like normal and if I had to stop quickly I would have hit whatever it was that was making me stop so quickly. I took a deep sigh of relief after the white-knuckle experience of getting to our destination and thanked my lucky stars that the trailer was still in one piece. Little did I know that getting there was just the beginning of my first real RV adventure!

We set the trailer up, which at the time was really nothing more than leveling it from front to rear using the tongue jack and turning the LP gas supply on. Then we settled in the trailer for the first night. We figured since it was cold outside we didn’t need to use the refrigerator, so we left our groceries in the Blazer. The furnace was the old style that you had to light manually. Soon after I got it to light it warmed up enough inside to take our gloves and coats off. For dinner we heated up some pork and beans on the range top and ate them out of the pan because we forgot to bring any plates. Afterwards we played a card game called set-back and eventually turned in for a good nights sleep. The next morning I went to the Blazer to get some bacon and eggs for breakfast. The eggs were frozen solid. We fried some bacon and later that morning we used the frozen eggs for target practice to sight our hunting rifles in. We washed the pans in a nearby, nearly frozen stream, since we didn’t have any water, and the rest of the day was spent scouting the snow covered hills for signs of deer. Then it was back to the cozy, but somewhat drafty Shasta trailer.

After another entree of pork and beans I put all of the empty cans and other garbage in a plastic bag and set it outside the door. The next morning was opening day. It was difficult to relax and go to bed that night, but knowing we would be getting up early we forced ourselves to turn in for the night. The first major event of the night was waking up around midnight because it felt like 10 degrees below zero inside the trailer. The trailer only had one full and one partially filled 20-pound LP gas bottle, and with the furnace running non-stop since we arrived they were both empty. Fortunately I did have enough forethought to bring two spare 20-pound LP bottles with us. I told my friend that since I got the trailer for us to use he would have to get out of his sleeping bag, change the bottles and re-light the furnace. After some reluctance and a few choice words he stumbled outside and changed them over. Soon it was warm again and we were both back to sleep.

Sometime around three in the morning the trailer began to shake, I mean literally shake back and forth. At first I thought I was dreaming but soon realized I wasn’t. I reached up and turned a small overhead light and looked over at my friend to see if he was awake. Not having any clue what was happening we both stared, wide-eyed, at each other. I pulled the small curtain away from the window and peered outside. It took a minute to focus my eyes in the dark, but I soon realized that there were two bears outside; a small black bear cub and its not so small mother pushing against the side of the trailer. Not really sure what to do we both got our hunting rifles, loaded a round in the chamber, and stood back, ready for when the bear would come busting through the door or a window. We waited for what seemed like forever at the time, but it was probably a minute or two before the shaking stopped. We glanced out the window again and there were no signs of the bears anywhere. Needless to say we didn’t get anymore sleep before it was time to head out to our favorite hunting spots early that morning. When we walked out of the trailer, with flashlights in hand, we soon realized why the black bears stopped to visit us that night. There were pork and bean cans and other garbage scattered everywhere around our makeshift campsite.

Another reason this memory remains so clear in my mind is because at 8:10 AM on opening day I shot my first 8-point whitetail buck on a ridge about 80 yards from where I was sitting. My friend heard the shot and came over to check it out. After field dressing the deer it took us about two hours to drag it down the long ravine, back to the trailer. Knowing that we had enough LP gas for one more night we fired up the furnace and ate some more pork and beans. After making sure there was no garbage outside we settled in to the warm, cozy Shasta trailer and played cards while I recounted the events of the great whitetail deer hunt over-and-over again.

We did manage to get the trailer back home safely, and other than some remnants of hungry black bear paw prints on the side of the trailer it was still in one piece. That nearly disastrous weekend hunting trip, in freezing cold weather, spent in the small Shasta travel trailer, is when I got bit by the RV bug. Thirty-three years and six RVs later, we are still making new RV memories every year.

Happy New Year & Happy Camping in 2009

Mark J. Polk

RV Education 101

Special offer

RV Campground Reservations

2008-12-29T07:26:00.000-05:00

Do you need to make campground reservations? Whether you’re planning to stay in a public or private campground the answer, in my opinion, is always yes. Make a campground reservation!

I was disappointed more than once before I discovered the secret of making reservations well in advance of a scheduled trip. Even when you are just traveling through an area to your final destination you should try to plan every stop along the way and make advance reservations. When you’re tired and need some rest you’ll be glad you did.

Making reservations in advance not only assures you there will be a campsite available when you arrive, but you can make other important arrangements too. You can request a site large enough to accommodate your RV and tow vehicle, or a pull through site versus a site you would need to back into. You can make sure the site has the proper electrical hook up for your RV, or make sure you get a full hook-up rather than a partial hook-up. You might want a site with a telephone line or a campground with wireless internet access. If you just cross your fingers and pull into the campground late in the afternoon, without reservations, there is a good chance you’ll be turned away or get a site you really don’t care for.

Campground reservations need to be made well in advance during the busy time of the year (May through August) and it’s smart to make reservations during the slow time of the year too. That way you can always get your favorite site, or a shady site if it is summer time, or the best waterfront site at the state park you go to. Believe me there are lots of other RVers with their eye on the same site you want.

Happy Camping,

**Reminder: Don’t forget to Get Your Free RV DVD (S/H of $5.95)

Mark Polk
RV Education 101

FREE RV DVD

2008-12-18T13:07:00.001-05:00

I wanted to let everyone know that we have a free offer:
We are taking one of the most popular DVD titles in our library (previously ONLY available to RV Dealers and now to retail ONLY available thru this free offer), and giving it away free. A $5.95 s/h applies and limit 1 per household. The name of the DVD is "The RV Orientation." The RV Orientation is 54 minutes long and it’s packed with information on topics like campground setup, the LP gas system, water system, electrical system and much more. We even added a bonus chapter on RV safety features and some bloopers to make it more entertaining. It applies to all types of RV's, with the only exception being a pop-up.

Our thought behind this free product offer is that it will benefit you, the RV consumer, especially right now during the holiday season, and it will benefit us by showcasing our information packed products which will in turn get our name out to more RVers and let them know about our other educational DVDs and books.

youtube video we made about it

details on our free offers and how to order

freeRVdvd.com

Thanks!
Dawn

RV Video Downloads

2008-12-11T08:55:00.000-05:00

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RV Education 101 Quick Tips

2008-11-10T08:42:00.000-05:00

Towing
Whenever you are determining the tow capacity of a vehicle make sure you know what the rear axle ratio is. It is quite possible to have the same type and size of vehicle with the same engine and the tow ratings vary by several thousand pounds. The axle ratio is a comparison of how many times the drive shaft rotates, versus the rear wheels. A 4.10:1 axle ratio means the drive shaft or pinion gear rotates 4.1 times for each rotation of the rear axle or ring gear. The higher the numeric value the better the vehicle will tow. Some people have a misperception that a vehicle with 4-WD will have a higher tow rating than an identical vehicle that is two-wheel drive. In reality the 2-WD vehicle will have the higher tow rating. The reason for this is the transfer case in the four-wheel drive vehicle adds additional weight to the vehicle, usually close to 500 pounds, which lowers the tow rating by that same amount. Keep in mind that any weight you add to the tow vehicle takes that same amount of weight away from the vehicles tow rating and Gross Combined Weight Rating.

Deep Cycle Battery
RVs come equipped with deep cycle batteries for the coach's 12-volt DC electrical system. House or coach batteries need to be true deep cycle batteries that are designed to provide a steady amount of current over a long period of time. Starting batteries and marine batteries should not be used in this application. True deep cycle batteries have much thicker plates and are designed to be deeply discharged and recharged over and over again. Many RVs use a single deep cycle battery. Deep cycle batteries are rated in amp hours. How many amps the battery can deliver for how many hours before the battery is discharged. If you enjoy dry camping, without utility hook-ups, you depend on your deep cycle battery(s) to take care of your 12-volt needs. You can purchase a deep cycle battery with a higher amp hour capacity that will last longer. The higher the amp hour capacity is the larger and heavier the battery is. If you have room for a larger battery and enjoy dry camping you may want to upgrade your deep cycle battery to one with a higher amp hour rating. If your RV is equipped with a marine RV battery you may want to upgrade to a true deep cycle battery.

Water Pressure Regulator
Water pressure at campgrounds can be extremely high and can cause damage to your RV plumbing system. Always use a water pressure regulator when you hook-up to the campground water supply. Always connect the water pressure regulator directly to the campground water source. This way you regulate the water pressure where the water pressure originates. It's also a good idea to turn the water supply off if you're going to be away from the campground for extended periods of time.

Water Filters
You never know the condition or quality of potable water at different campgrounds. Always use a water filtration system to filter the drinking water in your RV, or take bottled water with you for drinking water.

Pet Safety
Take updated photos of your pets with you on camping trips. If they should get lost you can use the pictures to assist in finding them.

Safe Drinking Hose
Always use a non-toxic, white RV drinking hose for your potable water connection at the campground. Take a black or green garden hose along for all other purposes such as cleaning the RV or flushing out holding tanks. You will always be able to distinguish the difference by the color of the hose.

Pre-Trip Checks
Before leaving on a trip always check the license plate and inspection/emission sticker on the RV to make sure they are current or won't expire while you are away. Always make sure your RV insurance is current.

Simple Test for Water Leaks
A quick and easy way to test your RV plumbing system for leaks is to turn the 12-volt water pump on when there is water in the fresh water holding tank. Once it pressurizes the system and shuts off it should not come back on until you open a water faucet. If the pump does come on sporadically, even for short periods of time, water is leaking somewhere.

Trip Routing
Print a detailed map and routes of your entire trip from an Internet trip planning service. It is a free service and it is a great help in tracking distance, routes, and exits that you need to be watching for especially in congested areas. A GPS system helps too.

Proper Tire Inflation
Always check and add air to the tires when they are cold, before traveling. When tires get hot the air expands and you get a higher-pressure reading. If you let some air out they will be under inflated when they are cold.

Awning Protection
Awning tie downs help to protect your patio awning, but you should never leave your awning out during bad weather, or when you're not physically at the campsite. Wind and rain can damage your RV awning very quickly and it can be expensive to repair.

Wiper Blade Maintenance
Check the condition of your windshield wiper blades before you leave on a trip. This is one of those things we don't think about until the next time we need them. Periodically clean the wiper blades with windshield washer fluid.

Happy Camping!

Mark J. Polk

RV Expert Mark Polk, seen on TV, is the producer & host of America's most highly regarded series of DVD's, videos, books, and e-books.

De-winterize & Sanitize your RV Water System

2008-06-07T08:56:00.000-05:00

At the end of your camping season you drained the water system, winterized the RV and put it in storage. One problem with this is that on most RV's when you drain the fresh water holding tank there is still some water left in the tank. Let's say you do manage to drain all of the water out of the tank. There is still moisture in the water system. Just imagine what can grow in that moist tank while it sits for three or four months. I'd rather not think about it.

This is the water tank that you drink from and the water you use to wash dishes and take showers with. We cannot assume that it will stay safe and fresh like the water system in our home. Contaminated water is extremely dangerous. We not only have to deal with a water system that hasn't been used for sometime, but when we travel in the RV we hook our water system up to a different water source every time we stop to spend the night some where. We hook up to city water, well water, and eventually contaminated water. You've probably heard people say don't drink the water if you go to Mexico. Well that can be true anywhere.

There are no guarantees that any water is completely safe for us to drink, but if we take certain precautions we can keep our RV water system safe to use. So where do we start? The first step after winter storage is to de-winterize the RV water system. I took this checklist from my Checklists for RVers E-book to help you with the de-winterizing process.

Depending on how your unit was winterized it will need to be de-winterized. Follow this simple checklist to get your water system ready for this years camping season.

* If you used non-toxic RV antifreeze open all drains and drain the antifreeze from the system into a container. If you do not have a bypass kit on the water heater, drain the antifreeze from the water heater.

* If you put any antifreeze in the fresh water holding tank be sure and drain it.

* Close all of the drains.

* Re-connect the outside shower hose if it was removed.

* To remove antifreeze from the 12-volt water pump, add water to the fresh water holding tank, turn the pump on and open all water faucets. Run water through the system and then turn the pump off.

* Take the water heater out of the bypass mode and hook a hose up to the city water inlet on the RV. Turn the water on and open all water faucets. Run fresh water through the system for several minutes. Don't forget the outside shower if equipped.

* Flush the toilet.

* Check the entire water system for leaks.

* Fill and drain your black and gray holding tanks at least once.

* Inspect the termination valve and lubricate the valve handles.

* Treat the black tank with holding tank chemicals.

* Re-install any water filter cartridges you removed for winterizing.

What we have accomplished so far was to remove the remnants of RV antifreeze from the water system. Now we need to sanitize the water system so it is safe and ready to use this camping season. This is another excerpt from my Checklists for RVers E-book

Take a quarter cup of house hold bleach for every fifteen gallons of water that your fresh water tank holds. Mix the bleach, with water, into a one-gallon container and pour it into the fresh water holding tank. Fill the fresh water tank almost completely full of water. Turn the water pump on, open all hot and cold faucets and run the water until you smell the bleach at each faucet. Close the faucets. If it's possible, drive the RV or pull the trailer so the water can move around to assist in cleaning the entire tank. Let it sit for at least 12 hours. Drain the entire system again and re-fill the fresh water tank with potable water. Open all of the faucets and run the water until you no longer smell any bleach. It may be necessary to repeat this process again to eliminate all signs of bleach from the water system.

Now that the RV water system is de-winterized and sanitized here are a couple of other ways to assist you in keeping it safe to use:

Always use a white, non-toxic RV drinking hose. Hoses not labeled safe for drinking can contribute to lead and other dangerous chemicals getting in the water. Use the white non-toxic hose for hooking up to the water source and take along a green or black garden hose for all other uses, like flushing out holding tanks or washing the RV. When you¡¦re not using the drinking hose roll it up and connect the two ends together. This will keep dirt and other debris from getting in the hose. The next time you use the hose, run some fresh water through it before hooking it up to the RV.

Next you need to filter the water going into the RV with a high quality filtration system. Water filters do not purify the water but they can control and remove bacteria, lead and other dangerous contaminants found in drinking water. You basically have two choices on how to filter your RV water system. You can install an inline water filter directly to the water line that you drink from, or you can filter all of the water going into the RV. I prefer to filter all of the water going into the RV. This helps to protect the entire water system and even filters the shower water to help prevent any type of skin irritation.

Follow these simple steps can assure that the fresh water system in your RV truly is fresh.

Happy Camping,
Mark

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Copyright 2008 by Mark J. Polk owner of RV Education 101

RV Expert Mark Polk, seen on TV, is the producer & host of America's most highly regarded series of DVD's, videos, books, and e-books. http://www.rveducation101.com/

Disney World Fun in the RV

2007-08-26T08:22:00.000-05:00

We took Josh & Tyler to Disney World. We stayed at Ft Wilderness, Disney's magical campground. My sister Tane her husband Bob and 3 of their kids, Brock, Carissa and Kyle went with us. They stayed in a Disney Cabin by our motorhome. A BLAST For sure!!!!

RV Water System...Like Water From Mexico?

2007-06-30T08:34:00.000-05:00

The water system in your RV provides the water that you drink from and the water you use to wash dishes and take showers with. We cannot assume that it will stay safe and fresh like the water system in our home. Contaminated water is extremely dangerous. We not only have to deal with a water system that hasn’t been used for sometime, but when we travel in the RV we hook our water system up to a different water source every time we stop to spend the night some where.

We hook up to city water, well water, and eventually contaminated water. You’ve probably heard people say don’t drink the water if you go to Mexico. Well that can be true anywhere. We stopped at a campground one night just to get a few hours of sleep and I didn’t bother to use the water filter. The water coming out of the faucet was cloudy and had small particles suspended in it.

Possibly the most important step you can take is to keep the fresh water system sanitized. At a minimum you should sanitize the system every spring when you take the RV out of storage and any time you notice stale water or an odor. It’s really quite simple to do.

Read how Mark sanitizes an RV water system:

Copyright 2007 by Mark J. Polk owner rveducation101.com

Are You Braking the Law? By Mark Polk

2007-05-10T08:32:00.001-05:00

Hi my name is Mark Polk. I am the owner of a company called RV Education 101. We produce videos on how to use and maintain Recreation Vehicles, and I am the author of a book titled “The RV Book”. I started the company because I was concerned about the lack of education and safety awareness for the RV consumer. To view our complete line of products please visit our website at http://www.rveducation101.com/.

Recently we teamed up with National Interstate Insurance Company (NIIC) to provide RVers with educational material to make all of your RV experiences safe fun and stress free.

This article focuses on an important topic if you plan to tow a vehicle behind your motorhome; a topic that is sometimes overlooked, and seldom talked about. The topic is supplemental braking systems. It’s not about what supplemental braking system you have, it’s the fact that you have one!

One requirement for towing a trailer is that the trailer must have a braking system that works in conjunction with the tow vehicle brakes. Why should this requirement be any different for a motorhome towing a vehicle? In reality its not, but most people just assume you don’t need a supplemental braking system for the vehicle you’re towing. Some reasons for this assumption are:

1) Because of the size of the motorhome there is no need for a supplemental brake system on the tow vehicle.
2) People assume the vehicle they are towing is much lighter than it really is.
3) Braking laws are not always enforced by individual U.S. states and Canadian provinces.
4) Nobody took the time to educate the RV consumer on the requirement for a supplemental braking system.

Putting assumptions aside, let’s take a look at some of the facts surrounding supplemental braking systems:

1) The brakes on a motor home are designed by the vehicle manufacturer to stop the weight of that particular vehicle, not the additional weight being towed behind it. This additional weight adds a substantial increase to the distance required to stop safely. Some motor home chassis warranties are voided if you tow amounts over 1,000 pounds without a supplemental braking system.

2) The vehicle you’re towing probably weighs more than you think it does. You need to take your towed vehicle to a set of scales and have it weighed. Make sure it is fully loaded with everything that will be in it when you are towing it. After you weigh it, double check to make sure the receiver on the motor home is rated to tow that amount of weight and that you aren’t exceeding any of the motor home weight ratings, like the Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR). The GCWR is the maximum permissible weight of the fully loaded motor home and the fully loaded towed vehicle combined. Most RV chassis manufacturers base their GCWR on the assumption that a supplemental brake system is being used.

3) Most states and Canadian provinces do have their own laws on the requirement for brakes on a towed trailer. The word trailer also applies to a vehicle being towed behind a motor home. These laws are normally based on the amount of weight being towed. Add to this your insurance company may not cover you in the event of an accident involving a vehicle with no braking system.

4) It’s sad to say but many times the RV consumer is not properly educated on the requirements for a supplemental braking system on the towed vehicle. And the most important reason for a supplemental braking system is for your safety and the safety of others.

Now that you have a better understanding of why you need a supplemental braking system, you need to decide which type is right for you.

(Photos Courtesy of Blue Ox)

There are many different types of supplemental braking systems available on the market today. These types include surge, hydraulic, air and vacuum. Some are very simple to install and use and some are much more complex. I recommend you talk to a knowledgeable RV dealer about which system would work best for your particular needs.

I personally like the idea of keeping it simple and decided the best system for me would be a portable type braking system. I decided on this type of braking system for several reasons.
1) It’s portable and it works on almost any towed vehicle with power brakes.
2) It doesn’t require any modifications to the existing brake system.
3) It’s easy to install and use

Regardless of the type or model you choose, being able to stop completely, in less time and a shorter distance, will give you an added sense of safety whenever you’re towing a vehicle. And it’s the law in most cases. Most importantly, a supplemental braking system SAFELY reduces the stopping distance and helps to protect you, your loved ones and the safety of others.

Q & A
Question: Where can I find state and province laws regarding weight limits for towing without supplemental brakes?
Mark Says: For safety reasons I recommend you consider a braking system regardless of the vehicle weight, but here is a link showing specific weight limits.
http://roadmasterinc.com/products/braking/map.html

Question: Is one type supplemental braking system better than the others?
Mark Says: It really depends on your particular needs. For example do you plan to tow the same vehicle all the time or will you be towing different vehicles? Will you be doing the installation yourself, or will it be done by somebody else? Is the system going to involve tapping into your vehicle’s brake system? What kind of warranty does the braking system offer? I recommend you talk to your RV dealer about which system is suited best for you.

Question: Can you tell me where I can go to research some of the different types of braking systems available to the RV consumer?
Mark Says: Here are some links to some of the manufacturers of supplemental braking systems. I apologize to any manufacturers I may have left out.

http://www.roadmasterinc.com/index.html
http://www.usgear.com/unified_tow_brake.htm
http://www.blueox.us/
http://www.brakebuddy.com/index.shtml
http://www.tow-v-aire.com/
http://www.towbrake.com/option.html
http://www.m-gengineering.com/index.html
http://www.smibrake.com/
http://www.viprv.com/index2.html
http://www.readybrake.com/
http://vasebrake.com/site/590961/page/45031

Happy Camping,

Mark J. Polk

Copyright 2007 by Mark J. Polk, owner of RV Education 101

RV Expert Mark Polk, seen on TV, is the producer & host of America's most highly regarded series of DVD's, videos, books, and e-books. http://www.rveducation101.com/.
Sign up for your free "RV Education 101" Newsletter http://rveducation101.com/email/

May RV Questions & Answers by Mark Polk

2007-05-10T06:07:00.000-05:00

*NOTE: At Mark's discretion, material might be edited to suit a wide audience. Due to the large volume of material and correspondence we receive, individual replies might not be possible, nor can we acknowledge receipt of submitted material. Selected questions will be answered in future issues of our RV Education 101 newsletter and on our site. Thank-you for your understanding.

Q: We have a Pop Up and my husband and I can never seem to back it in to the camp sight where we want it to go. Do you have any advice or ideas?

Mark says: I have a method that has always worked well for me with two people working together. First decide who will drive and who will give directions. Let’s say your husband is driving. For this to work you are his eyes and he needs to do exactly what you tell him. When you are ready to back it in, you stand in front of the vehicle where you can see the trailer and communicate with your husband. He puts his hand on the top of the steering wheel and slowly turns the wheel in the direction you tell him. If you want the back of the trailer to go to your right you tell him to turn the steering wheel to the right. If you want it to go to the left tell him to slowly turn the wheel to the left. Don’t get upset if you need to pull forward and start over. With a little practice you’ll be backing like the pros. There is an excellent video available that not only demonstrates methods for backing a Pop Up, but it covers everything you need to know about using Pop Ups too. Pop Up video

Q: After we decided to buy a travel trailer the dealer told us we would need to spend another $1,000 dollars on hitch work. Isn’t this a little unreasonable?

Mark says: The dealer should have explained the importance of proper hitch work during the sale. It is for your own safety and the safety of your loved one’s. If your particular purchase requires a weight-distributing hitch, dual cam sway control, electric brake control and wiring then 1,000 dollars is not unreasonable. Any reputable RV dealer will not sell the trailer without the proper hitch work.

Q: I have heard people talk about the 75% rule of thumb for towing. How does this work?

Mark says: There is some confusion on this subject. A lot of people say that you take the manufacturers tow rating for a vehicle and multiply it by 75% and this is the maximum weight you should tow. For example a tow rating of 8,000 pounds X 75% = 6,000 pounds. The 75 % rule is designed to build in a margin of safety. The way that I understand it and apply it is that you take the Gross Combined Weight Rating (GCWR) of the tow vehicle X 75%, and the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) of the tow vehicle X 75%. Once you determine this you subtract the two and this is the maximum weight you should tow. Using the same example above that vehicles GCWR is 14,000 pounds X 75% = 10,500 pounds. The GVWR is 8,800 X 75% = 6,600 pounds. 10,500 minus 6,600 = 3,900 pounds. I apply this rule if you plan to tow in high elevations. A gasoline engine looses 3 to 4 percent of its power for every 1,000 feet above sea level. The 75% rule compensates for that lose in power.

Q:My 2006 Toyota Tundra Quad Cab truck has a GCVWR of 11,800 (12,200 from another source), let's be conservative and say 11,800. The truck does have factory installed towing package. Tow rating on truck with tow package is 7100lbs according to owners mannual. Trailer has dry weight of 5190 and gross weight rating of 6500lbs. My estimates on cargo and add on's, I have estimated at around 850 to 900lbs. If we did any dry camping it would be very rare. So I'm not allowing for a lot of water weight.

So, loaded trailer weight should be about 6040lbs. Looking at it from this point I have almost 1100lbs of slack. But from at GCWR I'm pushing the envelope on weight. I do have a oil cooler with tow package. I have a prodigy brake controller, and I'm going with your recommendation and purchase an "Equalizer" hitch. They are kinda of high $$$, but I feel it will be money well spent. My truck also has a tow mode on the transmission. It takes it out of overdrive and runs the truck in 3rd gear. (There goes gas mileage!!)

The Jayco trailer I am looking at and the weight of the truck, put me at 98% of the GCVWR. I know the lower percentage the better, but what I can't get a straight answer on is being at 98% will the truck still pull O.K. I don't want to put the truck in a bind, and I don't want to spend 20 minutes trying to get up a hill either. I have weighed my truck on a scale as recommended. It was loaded and full of gas. I probably went a little overboard putting fire wood in the bed to get some extra weight. Just trying to figure on high side. I have also taken dry weight of trailer and have added for propane, hitch weight, some water, and personnel food and gear. (Food & Gear I used about 350lbs.) Just some added info. Based on the length of the wheel base of my truck. I'm just about at the maxium on trailer length too. I am going to purchase weight distribution and sway control hitch.
I just can't get a clear answer on towing ability at these weights from
anyone. You're not trying to sell me a travel trailer, so any information you can
provide me will be helpful.

I also have purchased your video series on RV's and have gained a lot of information. This is our first RV and we have a lot to learn. We need all the help we can get.

Mark says:I had a chance to review the information you sent. I have always said if the tow vehicle tow rating is higher than the trailers GVWR you are in pretty good shape (as long as you don't overload the trailer). And the key to the GCWR is to keep it below the GVW of the combined truck and trailer which you are, even though it is at 98%, it is below. If you plan to pull the trailer in the mountains a gas engine will loose 3 to 4% of its power at higher elevations and you may want to re-calulate your figures.

RV Expert Mark Polk, seen on TV, is the producer & host of America's most highly regarded series of DVD's, videos, books, and e-books.
http://www.rveducation101.com/

RV Spring Preparation Checklist

2007-04-14T08:41:00.000-05:00

Your RV has been sitting idle over the winter. Now the early signs of spring are here and it's time to take it out of storage and prepare the coach and chassis for this years camping season. If you're like me, you want to have some type of logical sequence to follow rather then haphazardly checking the unit out. I made a simple checklist to use so that nothing is overlooked. I prefer to do the majority of spring preparation myself. If you're more comfortable having someone else do it you can schedule an appointment with a reputable RV service center to have it done.

* Depending on how your unit was winterized it will need to be de-winterized. If you used non-toxic RV antifreeze you need to run fresh water through the entire system until all traces of antifreeze are gone. To remove it from the 12-volt water pump add water to the fresh water-holding tank, turn the pump on and open all water faucets. When the antifreeze is out of the system turn the pump off and take the water heater out of the by-pass mode (if applicable). Re-install any water filter cartridges you removed for storage.

* At this point I like to sanitize the water system. Make sure all of the drains are closed and drain plugs are installed. Take a quarter cup of household bleach for every fifteen gallons of water your fresh water tank holds. Mix the bleach with water into a one-gallon container and pour it into the fresh water holding tank. Fill the fresh water holding tank completely full of water. Turn the water pump on and open all faucets, run water until you smell the bleach. Close the faucets and let it sit for at least twelve hours. Drain all of the water and re-fill the tank with fresh water. Turn the pump on and open all faucets until you no longer smell bleach. It may be necessary to repeat this process to eliminate all signs of the bleach.

* With the water system under pressure inspect for water leaks. Check the operation of the toilet.

* Wash the unit thoroughly. This is a good time to inspect the roof and body seams, and window sealants for cracking that would allow water to get in. Consult a dealer for sealants compatible with these materials.

* Inspect the operation of the awning and clean the awning fabric as required.

* Inspect the tires for signs of dry rot. Inflate all tires to the recommended COLD tire pressure.

* Lubricate all hinges and locks with spray lubricant.

* Remove any tape or protective covering you may have put over LP gas vents to keep insects and rodents out. Check any mousetraps you may have put out. Open all doors and compartments and check for rodent intrusion and water damage.

* Inspect and clean the interior.

* Plug in any appliances that you unplugged for storage and replace any dry cell batteries you may have removed. This is a good time to put new batteries in items like smoke alarms.

* Test the operation of the carbon monoxide alarm, LP gas leak detector and smoke alarm.

* Check the fire extinguisher. Be sure it is fully charged.

* Reset any breakers you may have turned off. If you removed any fuses for storage re-install them.

* Clean or replace air conditioner filters if it wasn't done prior to storage and remove any covers that were put over air conditioners.

* Open vents and windows and air the unit out.

* If you removed the coach and chassis batteries for storage install them. Whether they were removed or not check the electrolyte levels, clean the terminals and clamps, and check the charge level in all batteries. Recharge batteries as necessary.

* Check the operation of the electric steps if applicable. Lubricate step mechanism.

* Test the operation of the hydraulic jacks if applicable. Check hydraulic fluid level.

* Test the operation of the back up camera and monitor if applicable.

* If you didn't change the oil and filters in the generator prior to storage this is a good time to do it. Inspect the generator exhaust system for damage prior to starting. Start and run the generator for two hours with at least a half rated load on it. Consult the generators owner manual for load ratings.

* Turn the generator off and plug the unit into shore power. Turn the refrigerator on in the electric mode. Allow sufficient time to cool and check for proper operation.

* Check all 12-volt interior lights and accessories.

* Test the monitor panel for proper operation.

* Check the operation of slide outs if applicable.

* Check the remaining 120-volt appliances for proper operation.

* Test the Ground Fault Interrupter (GFI) for proper operation.

* Turn the refrigerator off, leave the doors open and allow sufficient time for it to get to room temperature so it can be checked in the gas mode.

* Before I use the LP gas system I have a leak test and gas operating pressure test performed. A qualified technician with the proper equipment should do these tests.

* After this is accomplished turn the LP gas valve on and check the operation of all LP gas appliances. Be sure the water heater is full of water before testing the water heater. If a gas appliance is not operating properly have it inspected by a qualified technician. Insects are attracted to the odorant added to LP gas and build nests that can affect the appliance from operating properly.

* If your unit was in long-term storage and you didn't change the engine oil and filter prior to storage this would be a good time to do it.

* Check all fluid levels in transmission, power steering, engine coolant, engine oil, windshield washer and brakes. Consult vehicle owners manual.

* Start the engine and check for proper readings on all gauges. Check for proper operation of dash air conditioner.

* Perform a complete chassis lubrication if it wasn't done prior to storage.

* Check the condition of windshield wiper blades and replace them if necessary.

* Check the operation of all chassis lights.

* Make sure the vehicle emissions/inspection sticker is up to date.

* In addition to this if you have a pop-up or travel trailer the wheel bearings and brakes (if equipped) should be inspected at least once annually. Inspect any canvas for dry rot and tears; inspect all hitch work and the coupler for damage. Inspect the breakaway switch and pigtail for proper operation.

Happy Camping ,
Mark J Polk

Copyright 2007 by Mark J. Polk owner of RV Education 101

RV Expert Mark Polk, seen on TV, is the producer & host of America's most highly regarded series of DVD's, videos, books, and e-books. www.rveducation101.com/

RV Education 101 Video- Hitching a 5th wheel

2007-02-15T11:07:00.000-05:00


Mark Polk of RV Education 101 instructs you on how to properly hitch & unhitch a 5th wheel trailer. For more free RV training video tips visit www.rveducation101.com

RV Education 101 Video Controlling Trailer Sway

2007-02-15T10:55:00.000-05:00


Mark Polk of RV Education 101 instructs you on what contributes to trailer sway and what steps you can take to control it.

RV Education 101 Video Eliminating RV holding tank odors

2007-02-15T10:38:00.000-05:00

Mark Polk of RV Education 101 instructs you on what contributes to RV holding tank odors, and what you can do to prevent this from happening.

RV Tire Failure 101

2007-02-15T10:08:00.000-05:00

When I was young, my friends and I would go tent camping at our favorite spot in the rolling hills of Pennsylvania. It is where I learned the art of fly-fishing for trout, trapping muskrats and hunting whitetail deer. To this day just the thought of those camping trips bring back wonderful childhood memories. Not only are the memories good, the lessons I learned have lasted a lifetime.

My one friend’s father would go with us on many of our camping excursions. When he was a young man he spent several years working for a logging company. We would load up in his old 4X4 truck armed with chainsaws, axes, wedges and logging chains and head out in search of fallen trees and logs that would later be used to build our spectacular bonfires. Each and every time we went out to do this he made us inspect the logging chains and cables before we would skid the logs out of the woods behind the truck. He told us to inspect where the hooks attached to the chains and inspect the chains length for the weakest link. I was shocked at the number of times we discovered a link that was cracked or broken. He explained what the results could be if a chain or cable broke under tension.

I have applied the weakest link lesson many times since then. During my time in the Army I was in charge of some very large maintenance operations. We would go on countless recovery missions to upright vehicles that rolled over, or to tow a sixty-ton M1 tank back to the maintenance facility. We would inspect and re-inspect the riggings, looking for the weakest link, before attempting to recover these vehicles. Since retiring from the military my passion has been with RV’s and once again I realized the importance of the weakest link lesson.

Every weight rating on an RV is based on the weakest link in the system. The tires on your RV are by far the most important and most neglected link in the system. I can’t begin to tell you how many times I’ve heard people say that the tires on their RV were defective, or my tires only had 12,000 miles on them when I had a blowout. In the majority of cases the truth of the matter is that tire maintenance has been neglected. The only thing between your RV and the road surface is your tires and the air that is in them. This is the weakest link.

What are some of the leading causes of premature tire failure?
• Overloading the tires
• Under inflated tires
• Ozone and UV rays
• Age of the tires
• Rotating tires

Tire failure can be extremely dangerous and can cause extensive damage to your RV. There are no guarantees, but by practicing good tire maintenance you can feel much safer and secure that the weakest link on your RV will do its job while you’re out exploring this wonderful country we live in.

Happy Camping,
Mark J Polk

Copyright 2007 by Mark J. Polk owner of RV Education 101

RV Expert Mark Polk, seen on TV, is the producer & host of America's most highly regarded series of DVD's, videos, books, and e-books. http://www.rveducation101.com/

RV Education 101 Pre-Departure Checks for your RV

2007-02-05T14:30:00.000-05:00


Mark Polk of RV Education 101 demonstrates some basic pre-departure checks you should make on your RV prior to leaving on a trip.

Top RV Insurance Claims & How to Avoid Them by Mark Polk

2007-02-01T12:18:00.000-05:00

Your RV insurance can and should fit your RV. To get a free RV insurance quote with absolutely no obligation from Explorer RV Insurance Agency, Inc. call 1-888-774-6778.

After doing some research on RV insurance claims I discovered what one insurance company listed as the top five RV insurance claims filed by RVers. Today we're going to discuss what these claims are and how you can avoid them.

Claim #1

An insurance company stated that it receives at least 400 claims each year involving fires around the back of the refrigerator that are caused by leaking propane lines. If you're using your refrigerator in the LP gas mode, with an open flame, you definitely don't want a leaking LP gas line.

How to avoid it
To avoid becoming a statistic I recommend that you take your RV to an authorized RV repair facility annually and have the entire LP gas system checked. RV technicians have the proper equipment to check the system for leaks and to make sure the LP gas pressure is adjusted properly.

You, the owner, can periodically inspect for LP gas leaks. To do this turn the main gas supply on, but do not light any pilot lights or other burners. Take a bottle of approved LP leak detector solution and dab around all gas fittings. If there is a leak the small bubbles will grow into larger bubbles. Tighten the fitting and repeat the leak test. If the problem persists turn the LP gas supply off and take it to an RV repair center to have it checked out and repaired.

Claim #2

The next claim the insurance company listed was RV's hitting gas station overhangs and bridges. RVers forget or don't know the height of their RV and enter areas that don't have enough overhead clearance.

How to avoid it
The first step is to measure the height of the RV from the ground to the highest point, usually the top off the air conditioner. Manufacturer brochures often times include this information. Check the footnotes to make sure it includes optional equipment like the air conditioner. For safety measures add an additional six inches to the overall height. Write this information down and post it in the RV or tow vehicle where it can be easily seen and will serve as a constant reminder for you. When you exit the interstate to refuel select an exit that has several fuel stations so you can pick one that is easy to navigate, and has plenty of overhead clearance. If you travel on roads less traveled be sure and check clearances on all overhead bridges before attempting to go under them.

Claim #3

The insurance company lumped retracting the RV steps and awnings together in this claim. Traveling with the awning properly secured is one concern and stowing your awning in bad weather is another concern. Since the claim was not very specific about the awning I will address both issues.

How to avoid it
When I worked for an RV dealership I saw the end result of not retracting the steps on more than one occasion. It's easy to forget the RV steps when you are getting ready go on a trip or leave a campground. I have two ways to avoid this from happening to you. First you should always use a pre-trip checklist anytime you plan to move the RV. Second you should always walk around the entire RV a second time just before pulling out. You'll be amazed at some of the things you missed the first time you walked around the RV. I have a very thorough pre-trip checklist available in my “Checklists for RVers” e-book at www.rveducation101.com

The first thing we'll cover concerning the awning is stowing it properly for travel. Make sure the awning is properly stowed against the side of the RV and the roller tube lock mechanism is in the retract position. Make sure the awning arm travel locks are latched and tighten the black knobs on the back of the awning arms. The awning makes your RV six inches wider and you must always keep this in mind when you are traveling. I have seen many cases where the awning roller tube and fabric gets damaged by hitting or rubbing on something and the awning arms get damaged by catching on something. When navigating in close quarters, such as at a campground, use a spotter or a ground guide to make sure you have enough clearance to avoid damage to the awning.

I'm not sure if the insurance company gets more claims for travel related damage to the awning or storm related damage. I think I have seen more awning damage caused by rain, wind and storms. You should always lower one end of the awning to allow for water run off. The weight from water pooling on the awning fabric can cause extensive and costly damage. Any wind over 20 miles per hour can also cause extensive damage to the awning and to the RV. Never leave the awning out unattended. If everyone is leaving the campsite, store the awning in the travel position. When you go to bed, store the awning in the travel position. Even when you are at the campsite, you should use awning tie downs to prevent any sudden damage caused by a high wind gust or a storm that moves in quickly.

Claim #4

The next claim the insurance company listed was for damage caused by tire blowouts. I have seen extensive damage to RVs caused by tire blowouts. Tire blowouts on RVs are caused by overloaded tires, under inflated tires, old tires and tires damaged by the ozone and UV rays.

How to avoid it
Just like the axles on your RV, tires have load ratings too. The maximum ratings are molded into the side of the tires. You need to have your fully loaded RV weighed to ensure that the tires are not overloaded. The only way to know if a tire is overloaded is to find scales where you can weigh individual wheel positions in addition to the overall weight, and the axle weights.

Another leading cause of tire failure is under inflated tires. The load rating for a tire is only accurate if the tire is properly inflated. Under inflated tires cause extreme heat build up that leads to tire failure. The appearance of the tire can look normal but the internal damage is not visible and the tire can fail at any time without warning. If you find any tire 20 percent or more below the correct inflation pressure have it removed, demounted and inspected. Driving on a tire that is 20 percent or more under inflated can cause serious, permanent damage to the tire that may not be visible.

Ideally you should check tire inflation, and adjust it if required, everyday that you move or drive your RV. If you can't get into the habit of doing it on a daily basis you need to make it a point to check all tires weekly, at a minimum when you're traveling. You always want to check the tires when they are cold, meaning that you don't drive or move the RV before checking inflation pressure. The only way to correctly measure the inflation pressure in your tires is with a quality inflation pressure gauge. Don't ever depend on your eyes to check tire inflation. There can be as much as 20 PSI difference between tires that look the same. You need to invest in an accurate inflation pressure gauge. You should get one with a double, angled foot. This makes it much easier to check the outer tire of a dual set.

The age of your tires is another factor that contributes to tire failure. If your tires are more than seven years old they should be replaced. All tires manufactured in the United States have a DOT number. You might have to look on the inside sidewalls to find it. The last three or four digits in the DOT number identify how old the tire is. Older tires used three digits. The first two identify the week of the year that the tire was built and the third identifies the year. Newer tires use four digits. Again the first two digits are the week of the year and the last two identify the year. For example 1006 is the 10th week of the year, and 06 is the year 2006. If you question the age of your tires, especially on a used RV, and you can't find the DOT number have them inspected by a qualified tire center.

Ozone in the air and UV rays from the sun shorten the life of your tires. It's not uncommon to see RV tires with low mileage and plenty of tread that are ruined by the damaging effects of ozone and UV rays. Ozone in the air causes tires to dry rot and deteriorate. UV rays from the sun make it happen quicker. This is especially true of the tires sidewall. Inspect your tires for checking or cracks in the sidewalls. If you notice any damage the tires should be inspected by a professional. To protect your tires from sun damage keep them covered with covers that will block out the sunlight when not in use.

Claim #5

Number five in the top five RV claims was for damage caused by rodent infestation. When RVs are stored for the winter it's not uncommon for mice and squirrels to make their winter home in the RV. These animals are notorious for chewing through vehicle wiring and plastic and rubber lines, debilitating the entire vehicle.

How to avoid it
I don't know if there is any proven, full proof method for keeping these rodents out of your RV but there is a long list of ways people have tried. I will list some of these ideas that you can try to keep these unwanted guests away from your RV.

1) Possibly the most important step is to try and prevent mice and other rodents from being able to access your RV. This can be difficult because they can enter the RV through some very small areas. Start by inspecting the underside of your RV for any gaps or holes. Fill these gaps using silicone or expanding foam. A word of caution, if you never used expanding foam before you should experiment with it on something other than your RV first. When it dries it can expand a great deal more than you expect. Next, open drawers and cabinet doors inside your RV. Look in all of the corners and crevices, especially where plumbing and wiring enter the RV. If you can see any daylight mice can get in. Fill these areas with silicone or foam.

2) Remove all food from the RV when it's being stored and thoroughly clean it to remove any remnants of food that might attract mice and other rodents.

3) If at all possible try to park or store your RV on a solid surface like pavement or concrete. Try to avoid grass, fields or wooded areas.

4) If it's a motorized RV start it every week to run any squirrels off that may be making the engine compartment into a home for the winter. This is where a lot of chewing damage occurs.

5) If you don't mind the smell of mothballs scatter them throughout areas of the RV to include storage compartments and the underside. I have been told that mothballs will work for a while but eventually rodents will get used to the smell and it will no longer deter them.

6) Others say the alternative to mothballs is dryer sheets, like Bounce. People swear they work and the smell is much more pleasant. The problem with dryer sheets is once they dry out they are not really effective.

7) If you are close to where your RV is being stored you may want to use conventional mouse traps and check for mice every few days. The only problem with traps is the bait can actually attract mice. I don't recommend any type of poison. It can take several days for the poison to work and the mice will usually die somewhere that you can't find them. If this happens you may never get rid of the smell. If you do use poison make sure pets can't get to the areas where you put it.

8) I have talked to RVers who suggest you spray some type of insect spray (that contains mint oils) around the tires to discourage mice. The only problem I see with this is you would need to do it every few days if the RV is stored outside.

9) There are numerous ultrasonic pest controllers on the market. Some even offer money back guarantees. Again, I have talked to some people who swear by them and others who insist they don't work. I have never tried this method.

10) If all else fails I ran across a product called Fresh Cab that claims to put off a sweet woodsy-alpine scent that will keep mice away for up to three months. I have not personally tried this product, but if you would like to read more about it go to
http://www.goodearthenterprises.com/

After a great deal of research on this topic I have come to the conclusion that the only way to really keep rodents away is to get rid of the rodent's altogether. Continue to set traps for mice until they are gone and in the case of squirrels it may be necessary to trap and relocate them if there is no other method available to get rid of them.

I was surprised that damage to TV antennas did not make it in the top five RV claims. I have seen many TV antennas and RV roofs damaged by forgetting to lower the TV antenna. The damage isn't just from the antenna hitting something when it's in the raised position; it's also because the antenna cannot withstand the force from highway speeds when it's in the raised position. There are a couple of ways to avoid damage to your TV antenna. One is to stick to the trusty pre-trip checklist before you move the RV. Another way is hang the motor home or tow vehicle starting key, or something like a piece of colorful ribbon on the TV antenna handle whenever it's in the raised position. This will serve as a reminder to lower the antenna before you move the RV.

Armed with this advice, hopefully you can avoid becoming a statistic in the top five RV insurance claims. Be safe and have a great time exploring this wonderful country in your RV.

Happy Camping

Mark J. Polk

Copyright 2007 by Mark J. Polk owner of RV Education 101

RV Expert Mark Polk, seen on TV, is the producer & host of America's most highly regarded series of DVD's, videos, books, and e-books.http://www.rveducation101.com/

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RV Education 101 Updates from Mark

2007-01-30T14:33:00.000-05:00

Happy New Year! I hope everybody had a great holiday season and that you had an opportunity to make a new years resolution, and hopefully you can stick to it. We have some exciting plans for 2007 and some exciting news to start off the new year. Our products will be available in Wal-Mart stores beginning in February 2007. The initial launch will include three DVD titles to be in several hundred stores and my "The RV Book" will be available in over 3,000 stores nationwide. You can find them in the RV section of the automotive department.

More good news! We have been working on making our DVDs available by instant download for quite some time now, and have finally been successful with this latest technology. Now you will be able to purchase the DVD title you want to view and it will be available instantly, just like an e-book. Go to www.rvdownloads.com

My goal for 2007, as far as video production goes, is to update some of our older titles and to produce two new titles based on numerous customer and retail outlet requests; one on "How to Buy an RV" and the other on "RV Preventive Maintenance". We are also planning to produce a video seminar series on specialized topics that RVers are interested in and concerned about. As you know, educating RVers is very important to us. We will continue to partner with KOA and this year, we have also partnered with National Interstate Insurance Company & Explorer RV Insurance Agency to create some very exciting educational opportunities for RVers including some video seminars that will help to explain various topics about RV insurance and the different types of coverage.

We completed our Miracle Truss building project the middle of December. I am extremely pleased with the final product. Be sure and take a look at this months video tip to find out exactly how a Miracle Truss steel building is constructed from start to finish. I told Dawn if she can't find me, I'll be in the new building.
http://rveducation101.com/videostream/?clip=Miracle_Truss

Have a great 2007 camping season,

Mark

Live, Laugh, Love

2006-10-02T06:29:00.000-05:00

RV Education 101

I would like to share this. My friend Peggi McDonald author of RV Living in the 21st Century passed it on to me:

Here's to T-bone steaks, yellow roses and friendship.READ THIS!!!! and then reread it. Especially the last part...I walked into the grocery store not particularly interested in buying groceries I wasn't hungry. The pain of losing my husband of 7 years was still too raw. And this grocery store held so many sweet memories.

He often came with me and almost every time he'd pretend to go off and look for something special. I knew what he was up to. I'd always spot him walking down the aisle with the three yellow roses in his hands. He knew I loved yellow roses. With a heart filled with grief, I only wanted to buy my few items and leave, but even grocery shopping was different since he had passed on.

Shopping for one took time, a little more thought than it had for two. Standing by the meat, I searched for the perfect small steak and remembered how he had loved his steak. Suddenly a woman came beside me. She was blonde, slim and lovely in a soft green pantsuit. I watched as she picked up a large package of T-bones, dropped them in her basket.. Hesitated, and then put them back. She turned to go and once again reached for the pack of steaks.

She saw me watching her and she smiled. "My husband loves T-bones, but honestly, at these prices, I don't know." I swallowed the emotion down my throat and met her pale blue eyes. "My husband passed away eight days ago," I told her. Glancing at the package in her hands, I fought to control the tremble in my voice. "Buy him the steaks. And cherish every moment you have together." She shook her head and I saw the emotion in her eyes as she placed the package in her basket and wheeled away.

I turned and pushed my cart across the length of the store to the dairy products. There I stood, trying to decide which size milk I should buy. A Quart, I finally decided and moved on to the ice cream. If nothing else, I could always fix myself an ice cream cone. I placed the ice cream in my cart and looked down the aisle toward the front. I saw first the green suit, then recognized the pretty lady coming towards me. In her arms she carried a package. On her face was the brightest smile I had ever seen. I would swear a soft halo encircled her blonde hair as she kept walking toward me, her eyes holding mine. As she came closer, I saw what she held and tears began misting in my eyes. "These are for you," she said and placed three beautiful long stemmed yellow roses in my arms. "When you go through the line, they will know these are paid for." She leaned over and placed a gentle kiss on my cheek, then smiled again. I wanted to tell her what she'd done, what the roses meant, but still unable to speak, I watched as she walked away as tears clouded my vision.

I looked down at the beautiful roses nestled in the green tissue wrapping and found it almost unreal. How did she know? Suddenly the answer seemed so clear. I wasn't alone. Oh, you haven't forgotten me, have you? I whispered, with tears in my eyes. He was still with me, and she was his angel.

Every day be thankful for what you have and who you are.

________________________________

On another note:

Even though I clutch my blanket and growl when the alarm rings. Thankyou, Lord, that I can hear. There are many who are deaf.

Even though I keep my eyes closed against the morning light as long as possible. Thank you, Lord, that I can see. Many are blind.

Even though I huddle in my bed and put off rising. Thank you, Lord, thatI have the strength to rise. There are many who are bedridden.

Even though the first hour of my day is hectic, when socks are lost,toast is burned, tempers are short, and my children are so loud.Thank you, Lord, for my family. There are many who are lonely.

Even though our breakfast table never looks like the picture inmagazines and the menu is at times unbalanced.Thank you, Lord, for the food we have. There are many who are hungry.

Even though the routine of my job often is monotonous. Thank you, Lord,for the opportunity to work. There are many who have no job.

Even though I grumble and bemoan my fate from day to day and wish my circumstances were not so modest.

Thank you, Lord, for life.

RVing to Colorado..whooohoooo!!!!

2006-07-04T12:55:00.000-05:00

Mark, Tyler (our son) and I just returned from a 2 week trip to Colorado...We had so much fun!

My great friend Teresa..

Mark and Tyler fishing at 11 mile canyon..

Dawn, Tyler, Teresa and her daughter Laine

Mark, Tyler, Laine and my sister's daughter Carissa..
My sister's 2 sons, Kyle and Jordan...

My 93 year old Great Aunt Lorrayne

My Mom , me, my sister Tane

The Beach

2006-06-15T07:10:00.000-05:00

Mark and I (Dawn) have had a few wonderful weekends at our favorite campgound at the beach. Tyler was the only one that could come with us as Josh is on the American Legion baseball team. Quite the honor, but we do miss him when he can't come with us.

Meeting the president of The Happy Camper Club

2006-05-30T16:26:00.000-05:00

Hi!
I am Dawn, co-owner of RV Education 101 and wife of Mark Polk.

Mark and I have worked with Anne Pierson, president of Happy Camper Discount Club for about 5 years now. We have spoken on the phone and e-mailed each other for many countless hours throughout the years. It is kind of a neat feeling to be able to conjure up images of what you think someone might look like based on what you have communicated back and forth for so long.

Mark and I had an RV trip planned for some business and Mark said I could e-mail Anne and tell her that after our business meeting, we could drive our motorhome to meet her and her family. She and I were both ecstatic to say the least!

We finally got to Anne and Bob's Lake Bruin Campground. Out came this lady with a bucket hat...I knew instantly that it was Anne...exactly as I pictured her!

Anne and I discovered long ago that we have so much in common and had bonded long ago, especially now that we have met!

It was a lot of fun sitting around her and Bob's campground amongst our RV's, kids and animals. Something Mark and I will never forget and something we are most definately going to do again! They also took us on an evening boat ride to watch the sunset from the lake..WOW!

Mark always says that RV's give you the freedom to explore this wonderful country we live in, and you know what? He is right!!!!!!